Vesla Outside Antarctica Blog

2011-01-22T08:04:00.000-08:00

ABOVE: South Shetland Islands, 2008

I just had some fun with a photo from my collection.

I went to picnik.com and added the above quote in the font
of my choice.
I love the results, I may have to do more of these!
We'll get a chance to see how hard the wind blows when
we staff aboard Plancius take various passengers out
on short expeditions from the ship.
The trip at the end of the season is called
BASECAMP
and we'll be dropping anchor in the same place
for 2-3 days while everyone who wants to gets to try out:
~scaling a mt. peak on snow shoes
~kayaking for hours, around the bend and away from the ship
~camping on the ice
~and longer zodiac cruises

But for now, I'm enjoying the blasting wind here in Ushuaia.
It's coming straight down off the mountains, out of the Andes from up high
and feels just like katabatic winds.
Really fierce and strong on a gorgeous sunny day.

THE ELEGANT KING

2011-01-20T12:49:00.000-08:00

King penguins breed and raise their chicks here on St. Andrews Bay
on South Georgia, the largest King colony in the world.

Kings are the second largest penguins, only Emperors are larger
but not as colorful.
The King's beak is longer, making it easily distinguished.

These clean and fat penguins have returned from a
feeding trip at sea.
They eat small fishes, including lantern fish,
and krill.

The total world population of King penguins is 2.23 million
and it's increasing.

ADELIE CUTENESS: A Southern Ocean Tragedy

2011-01-16T06:11:00.001-08:00

The Adelie penguins are in trouble.
(pr. ah-DAY-lee)

Their populations are dwindling.

They're not moving to new places, they're simply...

disappearing.

Bill Fraser has been studying Adelie penguins at Palmer Station
in Antarctica for 35 years.

His findings were just published in a book written by Fen Montaigne,

and edited by bird biologist friend and co-staff worker, Brent Houston,
who's been a part of this study for several years.

The book is called,
Fraser's Penguins: A Journey to the Future in Antarctica
This link will get you to the NY Times Book Review.

Follow this link where Montaigne goes toe to toe with Stephen Colbert
in an interview on the talk show on global warming,
The Colbert Report

Each year we see these populations disappearing, too.

We've had the privilege to sit with them for some time,
watching their comings and goings.
It's tragic to know the next time we return they may not be there.

Some of these colonies have been dated back several hundreds of years.

They breed and raise their young on land,
after Antarctica has melted off its yearly accumulation of sea ice
and the penguins can find shore once again.
This usually happens in October and November each year.

The incubation period for their eggs is 35 days.
Adelies weigh around 9-13 lbs. and are about 18" tall.
They're solid as a rock being all muscle and very little fat.

After the chicks have fledged and lost most of their downy outer layer
they group together in 'creches' for warmth and protection
from invading skuas...birds that resemble sea gulls but are dark brown
and eat penguin eggs and chicks.

This frees up the parents to go to sea for food where
they eat krill and small fishes.

When they return to the colony they find their chicks by calling.
They feed the chicks packets of regurgitated food.

Sometimes they get distracted by our strange looking boats.

When the chicks reach maturity and have lost all their down
they are now ready to go to sea with the others in their colonies.
They spend the Antarctic winter feeding and resting on
ice bergs past the edge of the sea ice.
So the only time they're on land is to breed, incubate their eggs
and raise their chicks.

Below, a skua attempts to take off with an egg
but the Adelies fight back and eventually win,
this time anyway.

Penguins in Antarctica build nests of pebbles to aid drainage.
Heavy wet snow can be a disaster for eggs and chicks.

Going to sea can be very risky.
Leopard seals wait just below the ice or off shore
for the first penguin in the group.
Many will back away from the edge until the group finally
pushes one forward.
This can be disastrous, but not always.
Therefore there's always a great deal of hesitation among the leaders of the group.

A fishing and feeding trip in the sea has added benefits.
They always return clean and fresh.

This lucky Adelie penguin, below, escaped certain death from a leopard seal
by jumping into our zodiac for a ride!
The leopard seal knew it was there, it circled for quite some time
before giving up and going after other penguins.

Adelies are hardy and sturdy.
Their feathers are curved, forming a dense layer of warm trapped air beneath.
They create a waterproof barrier on their feathers by
expelling oil from a gland above their tails and spreading it around on top of the feathers.
This must be done each time they emerge from the sea.

Sitting on a nest in a tightly packed penguin colony
makes them targets for guano squirted with great force
from their nearby neighbors.

PENGUINS ON THE MARCH

2011-01-15T06:31:00.000-08:00

OFF LOADING KAYAKS

2011-01-14T15:45:00.000-08:00

This is how it's sometimes done, above.
Much safer is this method:
Three to four people on a tandem, two of them on the ropes.

This is one very effective method but it only works when
there's enough room to maneuver on the aft deck
and the deck is close enough to the water.

Well-timed teamwork assures a smooth transition.

The Plancius has ample aft deck space for us to schlepp kayaks around.
The beauty of this plan is it keeps us separate from the other
zodiac operations (as seen above), saving all of us time and angst.
Don't you love great organization?

Thanks for the great idea, Troels.
And thanks for the photos, Andrew.
They show the operation beautifully.

2011-01-13T12:57:00.000-08:00

Camping in Leith Cove, off Paradise Harbour.

A small fumarole on a large and active volcano.
Telephon Bay, Deception Island.

Heading south toward the Lemaire Channel.
I love this approach...the captain swings the ship westward on its way down.
This approach brings us closer to the cliffs on the right
and turns the channel into a curve with the end of it out of sight.
Makes for more drama than going straight down the center of it
as most captains do.

Into the valley of giant icebergs in Skontorp Cove,
Paradise Harbour.

A grounded glacier, one that shows shoreline beneath it
isn't nearly as dangerous to be near as a tidal glacier.
Tidal glaciers hide ice that can go several hundred feet under water.
When these calve they can create humongous tidal waves.

Like these tidal glaciers in the distance, for example.
They're about 150' tall and can cause quite a tidal wave,
dangerous if you're too close.

2011-01-13T12:44:00.000-08:00

Sculpted ice bergs in the foreground, glaciers in the distance, behind.

Plancius plows through a sea of ice on its way to Vernadsky Station,
outside the Lemaire Channel to the west.
We would be denied this access, the sea was too thick with ice in early December.
The reward was finding a dozen or so snoozing seals on various ice floes.
Many crabeater seals and the occasional leopard seal.

Plancius in a shimmering sea.
And for scale:

The light is something very special in Antarctia.
Here it's almost 11:00 p.m. and the light is touching
just the peaks.
It's almost always pink at this hour.

I was able to make contact with my friend Phil
who'd chartered the Spirit of Sydney to lead an expedition
of hardy climbers on several first ascents.
Some of these peaks were unnamed.
In all they climbed an impressive SIX peaks,
all from the sailboat.
Read about it HERE.
Here it rests at anchor behind Port Lockroy,
the night before heading back up the Drake Passage.
The trip back took only three and a half days under full sail!

The sun gets low and in mid-summer sometimes sets on Antarctica.

HAPPY PADDLING PHOTOS FROM ANTARCTICA

2011-01-13T10:20:00.001-08:00

So far Oceanwide is the only company down here using snowshoes for shore landings.
This is a fantastic idea.
First, it keeps the penguins from dropping down into postholes left behind
after people punch down through the unusually deep snow this year.
It's not that the penguins get trapped but it can be exhausting for them
clawing their way out.
Second, passengers can walk on top of the snow more easil

Washing 100 pair was a chore of course. It took two of us well over an hour
to get the frozen in penguin guano dug out.
Dipping them in the freezing water only cemented it further in place.
Brushes are handy things!

Guardian Angel Julian tends to the kayaks on their way back to the ship.

Thanks for two great trips, Julian!

Paddling past the cliffs at Neptune's Bellows on Deception (Depression) Island.
This is a rare treat, getting outside the Bellows is usually out of the question.
Deception Island is all by itself in the Bransfield Straight
and the wind can hit from any and all directions.
Normally the swells make this outside trek impossible.

GENTOO LEADS THE WAY

2011-01-12T17:42:00.000-08:00

Thanks for this adorable photo, Angie!

BLISS

2011-01-10T10:08:00.000-08:00

ENTERPRISE ISLAND, 64°32'S, 062°00'W

2011-01-10T06:02:00.000-08:00

Above is a view from the ship's rail.
We'd just discovered a small and far-off group of 3 humpback whales bubble net feeding.
The captain slowed the ship into neutral and we drifted for a while.
They kept changing their location and seemed to be getting closer and closer.
We watched breathlessly for their next appearance at the surface.

From this vantage point we could see their colossal mouths and throats as pleats and mouths opened to gulp in tons of krill dense water.
The baleen were visible, too, closing down to filter out the water and keep the krill for ingestion.
The pink you see is the roof of that gigantic mouth.

After watching at the rail for some time it became apparent there were other, small groups of humpbacks feeding in this large bay.
The plan had originally been to zodiac cruise here in Foyn Harbour and nearby Enterprise Island so without further delay we got zodiacs ready to dispatch from the ship.
Kayaks, too!

The zodiacs zoomed out ahead of us and found various small groups to team up with.
There were easily 15 whales in this bay,
all broken down into groups of 2-3,
enough for us all to have a private viewing.

In the distance we could see and hear radio reports of very active and animated humpback antics: fluke and flipper slapping, twisting, floating on their backs underwater and yes, bubble net and blast feeding, too.
As kayakers we tried to avoid the crowds and went with our own two humpbacks.
And what a show that was!
Our two fed so near us and for so long we got to see all their teamwork and techniques.

This is some of what the main group of zodiac cruisers were treated to:

Meanwhile, the highlight of our time with the two feeding humpbacks was when a circle of bubbles appeared right in front of our kayak bows.
We sat rafted up and waited for their surfacing.
Sure enough, right off our bows the huge mouths came slowly up, opened, filled with water and sank just as slowly beneath the surface.

The tail flukes are always exciting to see and sometimes elicit cheers but to be honest I always dread it just a little...it means they're going into a deep dive and may not surface for 5-7 minutes, or at all.
This time though I was relieved...
their deep dives meant more bubble net feeding.
A deep dive at feeding time allows them to form their round nets of bubbles, herding their prey upward as they spiral upward with it.
It's precision teamwork and a delight to see.

Even more impressive would be to observe this underwater.
They rise in succession, as in a ballet with one surfacing first then the next and so on.
From underwater it must look like a procession.
It appears that perhaps the older ones go first.

THE WANDERERS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

2011-01-08T17:02:00.000-08:00

The wandering albatross is one of the largest in the world.
For some reason we were blessed with a large number of them
on one of our trips south this season.
They only accompany the ship when the wind is good.
It allowed some of us a chance to get many photos of them.

Albatrosses require wind as they are designed to ride the wind, not flap.

PENGUIN HIGHWAYS

2011-01-08T16:50:00.000-08:00

This group of gentoo penguins, above, is enjoying a fresh water cleansing after spending many hours on the nest, being targets for guano shooting neighbors in the colony.
Using pathways to the sea where others have gone before is more efficient than striking out on their own each time.

Once they've enjoyed a cleansing feeding trip and time relaxing they return,
retracing their steps up the same highways that got them to the water initially.

They're curious birds, something out of the ordinary might catch their eye.
A carcass held this penguin's interest for a while.
Since carcass isn't on the penguin menu there was no danger of ingestion, it was merely curious.

Once satisfied it wasn't anything the penguin would want it moved along on its way,
back to the colony and its nest.

Sometimes they just like to hang out, apparently relaxing.

FOUR DIFFERENT SPECIES

2011-01-08T16:45:00.000-08:00

Above, an Adelie pair share a rocky outcropping with a nesting gentoo.
Below, you'll see an Adelie and a gentoo sharing space with a group of chinstrap penguins.
That's a snoozing fur seal in the background.

And this macaroni penguin...he's been holding out in this chinstrap colony for four seasons now.
He's about 500 miles off course and away from 'home.'
He belongs in the Falkland Islands.
Unable to breed he'll probably live out his years here onHalf Moon Island in the South Shetlands.

STUCK IN ICE IN THE LEMAIRE CHANNEL

2011-01-08T16:19:00.000-08:00

There was an inordinate amount of ice blown into the famous Lemaire Channel in mid-January when we were attempting to navigate our way south to Petermann Island and Port Charcot,
two tasty landings that await at the southern end.
It wasn't to be.
We encountered the huge field of brash ice, which wasn't such a bad thing...it's free floating and made up of small bits of ice after all. But what stopped us and forced a turn around was the presence of many very large ice bergs.
We made our way north a bit and pulled into Deloncle Bay, just off the east side of the channel.
The intention was to zodiac cruise looking for seals, a penguin colony and get close to the glaciers.
We could see fields of brash ice everywhere plus some open water areas
that looked enticing for a zodiac cruise.
Kayaking had been suspended as zodiac reports came in via radio that the wind was picking up and the ice was on the move.
Not the safest place for kayaks to be but in those conditions
generally zodiacs can easily navigate thanks to the extra horse power, 40hp in fact.
Within 20 minutes of entering the ice the wind suddenly shifted
and just like that no less than five of the nine zodiacs were locked in the ice.
As luck would have it three of the drivers were the most highly trained on the ship: the Expedition Leader, the Chief Mate and a very skilled Russian sailor. The third mate was also in there and one other driver, also of high skill.
There was nothing they could have done, luck was simply not on their side.
What ensued was a series of radio conversations to the ship, which at first couldn't spot them around and behind the large ice bergs.
Finally a position was relayed and the ship repositioned, busting up ice on its way to the rescue.
Those of us out in the open water
(the kayakers all jumped into our safety zodiac which Julian skillfully navigated through the more loosely formed ice fields)
waited and watched as the ship ever so slowly worked its way toward the five beset zodiacs. Radio transmissions were revealing, it was apparent this was a rescue mission, pure and simple. It took a little time and people were starting to feel the chill.
In our zodiac we made a distinction between cold and chill...
we clearly had plenty of time before being in danger.
As each zodiac was approached by the ship a loud cheer went up...
first from the passengers who'd decided to stay on board, then by each load of passengers as their zodiacs approached the gangway.
Once aboard they, too, joined in the celebration so that by the time the ship reached the rest of us in the open water a huge contingent of cheering audience was now on the bow,
welcoming us back.

Enjoy these photos and imagine what an adventure this was for everyone!

BELOW: Driver and passengers attempt to move ice away from the bow with paddles to clear a passageway, unsuccessfully, of course but it kept them warm!

Ice everywhere!

Chief Mate, Alexiy, tries battling the ice by revving the engine.
This didn't work, either, but it was worth the effort.

I love this picture with the enlarged bow and the radiating clouds behind.
Plancius and Captain Alexander to the rescue!!!

Meanwhile, we kayakers puttered around in the open water looking for seals on ice floes
and generally just passing time while waiting for the ship to clear the ice.

This was the kind of adventure that couldn't have been planned
and all were happy and relieved to be back aboard.
Later, Captain Alexander would regale how he'd been thrilled to put
the Plancius through its paces in the ice.
Apparently he'd use the bow thrusters
to move the ice away from the bow for free passage.
He was happy to have external controls outside the bridge,
allowing him to look straight down the side of the ship to
watch the thruster's success.
"It handled like a champion," he'd later say. "It goes perfectly through the ice."

2011-01-08T14:22:00.000-08:00

FIRST AND LASTING IMPRESSIONS

2010-12-20T07:29:00.000-08:00

Those specks, below, would be us. I like calling this photo, SCALE.

We had two days of glorious sunshine this trip.

Lack of wind is another aspect of a sunny day

on the inland waterways of the Antarctic Peninsula.

Closing in on Port Lockroy on Weinke Island.

Allen, Kevin, Sandra, Flip, Caroline, Ron, Ian, Jim and myself.

Home sweet home, below.

Julian rounding up the ´yaks for us.

Sure, it’s the land of snow and ice, but there are patterns I’m apparently used to over these past 6 years. But this year the pattern appears broken.

SNOW
For one thing there’s about 1-2 meters (3-6’) more snow than usual on the islands and surrounds of the peninsula. Sister Susan sent a photo ahead in late November showing the front runners of a group of about 2,000 gentoo penguins on the march seeking open space on which to nest with this years’ crop of new eggs. But it was for naught, the snow was too deep for them. Undaunted, they began a long and arduous slog up the steep banks at waters’ edge toward small bits of rock, barely exposed by the sun’s intensity.
Yet, the snow remains. I haven’t heard an explanation for this, who knows…global warming creating warmer conditions which sends more moisture and snow?
The penguins are making their trek, the eggs are getting laid into their rocky nests and the calls are echoing through the channels.
We gaze up in awe at their tough courage.

ICE
Miles and miles of pack ice in all directions, preventing us from getting to our southernmost destination, the Ukraine research station Vernadsky.
It all started a bit earlier in the Lemaire Channel when the ice made a fast and deliberate march from the southern choked end, pushing loads of ice northward. As it came flying out of the channel northward a call went out from the Expedition Leader to pack it in with the zodiac cruise and kayaking and for all 11 zodiacs to get back to the ship as soon as possible. Two caravans of zodiacs slowly worked their way slowly through the thick pack ice, carefully maneuvering around the bigger bergs.
Once aboard ship the Captain turned us toward the open ocean to the west of the famous channel and mainland in a push to the south. Not five miles along we ran into the massive ice field.
The crunching and booming sounds reverberated through the ship but it was thrilling to be out on the decks watching over the rail as the bow pierced the ice floes and bergs. Several seasoned veterans among the staff concurred they’d never seen such a dense and extensive ice pack. It went on for miles and miles around, as far as the eye could see.
Almost immediately we noticed brown blobs and specks here and there on the floes. A quick check with binoculars confirmed as we’d initially suspected: seals. First, a leopard seal here, a leopard seal there. All snoozing. Then we spotted a mother and pup. Other seals began to appear as we pushed on. Mostly crabeater seals with the occasional Weddell seal. Typical poses, body forms and colorations made identification easy. In all we saw easily 30-40 seals before turning the ship around in a denial of our attempt on Vernadsky Station.
Ice everywhere!

KAYAKING IN ANTARCTICA
Years of practice is making me an old softie, I think. I used to worry desperately about people wandering off doing the wrong things to bring about disaster to the unwary. Now, I’m trusting my training is getting through to those very responsible and capable paddlers more. They really take seriously the dangers, those in the know who’ve had their own years of experience albeit in warmer waters. Still, they ‘get it’ and do take the warnings seriously. For instance, distance from ice bergs is difficult to convey, it’s a feel thing but I think comes about mostly when someone has seen bergs breaking apart and capsizing. I’ve also seen kayakers capsize when startled by the sound of a calving and even though they weren’t in imminent danger they thought they were, turned too suddenly and ended up dumping the kayak and themselves into the frigid water.
So this is a group I haven’t had to worry about. Skill level is very high, including two kayak instructors plus a whitewater kayaker are among us, not to mention those who paddle in their own kayaks at home. The others are almost all strong, skilled and experienced so now, for the first time, I find I really don’t have any beginners among them.
Confidence level is high, teamwork happens almost without instruction or hesitation and all paddle outings are longer than the usual sightseeing jaunt.
Don’t get me wrong, we’ve all had our cameras out but in the course of covering good distances we’ve had a chance to see and absorb loads more than usual.
It’s been an entirely satisfying kayak program with six outings. One or two less than normal (we got iced out twice) but the quality level was quite high.

I’M ONLY AS GOOD AS MY ASSISTANT
A gift was showered upon us this trip.
One staff left the ship unexpectedly, with appendicitis symptoms. A replacement was found ‘on the ground’ in Ushuaia with 1.5 hours notice.
He appeared out of nowhere and ended up being my safety zodiac driver. What a sheer delight our friend Julian turned out to be!
Already trained as a safety zodiac driver he knew the drill. What a relief not to have to instruct, coax and guide. He took to it readily and was a willing and ably trained assistant. Grabbing a camera he pounded out hundreds of great photos to share with us all. His delightful personality and thoughtful demeanor put everyone at ease.
I can’t say enough kind words about our patient Guardian Angel with the halo of soft curly locks. And now he’ll be with us for another trip through the Southern Ocean to Antarctica.

I SAW FIVE SHIPS COME SAILING IN...

2010-12-10T02:54:00.000-08:00

It's not Christmas Day in the morning but there are five ships that docked here overnight, all small eco tourism ships. Each with 'round about 100 passengers, they'll stay tied alongside the pier for the day then all set out about the same time, eastward out the Beagle Channel and into the Drake Passage. That all happens at 6:00 p.m. local time today.

At midnight we'll start to feel the movement of the ship as it encounters the swells coming from the west.

If we're to see albatrosses on this trip down it will depend on one thing. Wind.
Made for soaring these immense birds do that one thing well. They don't flap wings for propulsion but rely entirely on the wind to cover their distances. Stopping on water now and then to feed or rest they don't actually have to touch down for hundreds of miles.
I always wondered what they did when they ran out of wind. Apparently they simply stop and rest on the waves, feeding, until the wind picks up again.
On the morning of the third day we'll encounter our first land masses, the South Shetland Islands.

The first views of these are an eerie sort of sight. Comprised mainly of ancient volcanic activity, craggy spires rise straight up out of the ocean like hundreds of scary devil's teeth. Huge plumes of waves crashing against them can be seen for miles. Ships pass respectfully between the deep channels offering us our first glimpses of this remote location.

Indeed, spending over two days on the ship to get here has earned us certain rights. It seems fitting we should travel this long distance for the privilege of seeing a place so remote. It would be cheating to fly here.

The town of Ushuaia has been fairly quiet for these past two days since I arrived. Only one fishing ship has been tied up at the pier, the shops, restaurants and streets have been nearly deserted. But today things should be hopping.

ON THE HIGH SEAS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

2010-12-09T10:13:00.000-08:00

CLELIA II
On Wednesday one of the fleet of 17 ships currently plying the waters between Ushuaia and the Antarctic Peninsula ran into trouble in high seas when a huge wave crashed through a bridge window, knocking out power in some sectors for a short time. All is back to normal now but the ship has foundered and traveled at reduced speed on its way back to Ushuaia.
This is the same ship my sister Susan was aboard last season as a guest lecturer.
The nearest ship to it, belonging to National Geographic, turned south and traveled two hours to reach it, standing by to assist.
As part of normal procedure the crew was able to 'toss' an item, in this case a replacement Iridium phone, between the two bouncing ships, via a trajectory gun.
The ship is now in the Beagle Channel, some nearly 20 hours behind schedule but all are safe aboard.
Many news reports in the media yesterday and today have got their information wrong, but that's to be expected. No engine failure, not 165 passengers but 88, that sort of thing.
Photos from aboard the assisting ship are HERE.
Also on the same blog, VIDEO FOOTAGE of the foundering Clelia II. Rough seas but nothing we haven't experienced before.
A staff friend from former trips is aboard the Ocean Nova, which is following the Clelia II until it's safely into port. Both ships are expected this afternoon, along with the ship I'm about to board, the Plancius, and a ship I was on two years ago, the Ioffe.
Just heard from a friend aboard the Plancius they're experiencing a calm and sunny evening in the Beagle Channel while here in Ushuaia it's been blowing a hoolie all day with buckets of sideways rain.
It's not as cold as home, though. The header on my server page shows it's been a high of 15F all day. I'm glad I'm somewhere 'warm.'

LANDED!!

2010-12-09T09:43:00.000-08:00

Here's a little teaser for you:

Above: The southern Andes Mountains in Patagonia
From Buenos Aires we fly 3 hours above the clouds in brilliant blue sunshine, unawares of what lies beneath. Well, I know what's there, and I can't wait...

We begin the descent through the clouds and get to appreciate the above view for half an hour.
Then, suddenly here's what we see as we bank and make our way down, down, down to the landing strip.
The Beagle Channel!

These are not my images but this is nearly what I saw.
(I took photos but my card reader's in my lost luggage.)
Unfortunately, each year the snow on the peaks is less and less.
In fact, yesterday it was revealed there is next to no snow on the peaks.
I recall my first time down here, it looked exactly as above.
BUMMER...
I landed but my luggage didn't.
So, if the luggage doesn't magically appear
(and apparently it's magic that works)
then at the last minute on Friday, December 10,
I'll be dashing around Ushuaia looking for some replacement gear.
Same thing last year so I guess that makes me seasoned to repeat the drill.
WEATHER
Blowing a hoolie here in Ushuaia with buckets of pelting rain.
FOOD
And now I must get out to find food.
I keep forgetting to eat!
UPDATES...
Updates will appear more periodically now,
I've been requested by a number of friends to work harder to provide more news.

LEOPARD SEAL with FRESH PENGUIN KILL

2010-11-29T10:21:00.000-08:00

Leopard seals skin their prey alive by smashing them back and forth on the water's surface. They then eat the tasty bits by nibbling them off with their canine teeth, casting the carcass aside when finished.

Cuverville Island, 64 41 S, 62 38 W, in the Errera Channel

This 2km by 2.5km island is a steep-sided dome, two-thirds of which is covered by a permanent ice-cap.
It's one location we almost always get to paddle the kayaks. Many photos of leopard seal kills in this blog are taken in the waters. Scroll down through "Older Posts" for more.

MARCH OF THE GENTOO PENGUINS

2010-11-22T10:27:00.000-08:00

This just in.

My sister, Susan, is currently in Antarctica and saw this on her first trip, in early November.

The photo shows about 2,000 gentoo penguins emerging from the sea and eager to start breeding. They're fattened up from having spent several months at sea, foraging and eating.

Now they hear the call to mate and have come ashore...only to find their normally pebbly beaches covered with snow and ice.

This is a difficult time for these are early breeders which now must traipse over a mile straight uphill, to the peaks where sun has melted off some of the thinner ice. They require bare rock to build their nests upon. Can you imagine walking in 3' deep snow on little 3" legs?

She was thrilled to see this stunning site! First time for her in all of her 20+ years of guiding trips on the Antarctic Peninsula.

HEADING DOWN BACK DOWN DECEMBER 7

2010-11-22T10:17:00.000-08:00

Until I go and come back with new photos here are some videos to hold you over.

The first is Part One of Expedition to Antarctica, February 2010, aboard the Akademik Ioffe, a ship I've spent lots of time on.
Part One

Part Two is a continuation. Both are great representations of a typical trip. Only a very small amount of kayaking footage, though.
Part Two

This is a video created by Tom McManamon from Ireland. He brought several clients with him with his New Horizons travel company, a few of whom paddled with me last season. This is also a great representation of a typical trip on the Antarctic Peninsula, generally a ten-day trip.
Here's his lovely video. (That's me at 3:18.)

Then there's this exciting one from last season. A moment in the Drake Passage aboard the Akademic Shokalskiy, my floating home for five seasons.

FERNWEH

2010-10-25T10:40:00.000-07:00

It's German and means "an ache for the distance."
For me it's not such a desire to get out and travel but a need to be back in Antarctica.
I'm aching to be back where the distances are eternally never ending.
Back in my kayak seat, looking off into a distance that could almost be 150 miles. Unfathomable by our modern day senses yet with a total lack of air pollution and only mt. peaks to measure the distance this is truly what it's like to be in Antarctica.
The above banner photo conveys this. Gazing off into forever in the impossibly crystal clear and pristine air. There's nothing like it anywhere.
I now have this craving to get my trips underway. I'm filled with longing for this environment and wonder what it'll be like when I no longer have the privilege of filling my heart, soul and lungs with it.
Likely the emotions will be put to good use with other pursuits. And I can get back to my skiing, at last. It's been seven good long years in Antarctica and if it's the last well I guess that's alright. I've had a great run, had my share. It has permeated my soul so it'll be locked away there forever.
Going up on deck when the ship's under motion and most other passengers are inside somewhere, filling their time. Feeling that bitter cold snap in the face upon emerging from the hot ship, dressed for the duration, knowing if I don't this ship-top moment will be over too soon. Why shortchange it when dressing ahead can keep me out for an hour or more.
The ruddy cheeks, the sparkling eyes and all that amazing clear air fully consumed...the memory of it even now creates a longing to have it again.
Now I'm exercising patience until I get there, and filling my days with the preparation. Woo, time will fly once the calender flips to November 1!

VESLA'S BLOGS

2010-10-03T06:03:00.000-07:00

See more of my blogs HERE.

'OLDER POSTS'

2010-09-10T08:30:00.000-07:00

Don't forget to click on Older Posts, lower right, to see umpty-ump postings from previous dates. There's a mountain of great photos to peruse!

ORCA and ZODIAC

2010-09-09T08:09:00.000-07:00

OMG. Check this out. I've never seen orca do this in Antarctica! They're just checking out the zodiac. Whoa. Nice video, Christian.

This new video just landed in my box.

2010-08-26T10:10:00.000-07:00

Come to Antarctica with me. We'll sea kayak to a glacier together.
Need another little adrenaline rush-ing reason to go?
Go here for another look at our ecotoursim cruises on the Antarctic Peninsula and see why we want to return again and again. Yes, that's me at 3:18.
(Hint: Turn up your volume.)

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And the videos just keep coming! Richard Sidey, a friend and videographer who spent some time with us on the Shokalskiy, has been making tracks big time ever since. Here's a tasty trailer of his new, upcoming video, Landscapes at the World's Ends.
He's amazing with a camera and creating award-winning time lapse videos. His artistry is phenomenal.

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Here's another tasty video, though short. It shows a paddler with humpbacks in Antarctica. What he/she probably doesn't know is that by following behind them, no matter how quietly or respectfully, the whales are frightened so go into a deep dive and disappear. That's why we always try to approach them from the sides. This way they'll stay much longer to play, diving shallow under our kayaks or coming up to spy hop right next to us. I held my hand outstretched one time and a whale surfaced from down deep, to right underneath my hand! The snout was *right there!*
You'll notice a whale lingering at the surface a very long time. This is sleeping posture. We see this in the very early mornings if we're lucky enough to get on the water by six a.m. Sleeping leopard seals are occasionally seen, too. It appears to take them a long time to wake up and focus on us. They act like small children awoken too early from a nap.

got yer travel bug on?

2010-07-23T07:48:00.001-07:00

Check out this guys' work. If you can't travel at least you can serve salad while planning your next venture out. Map bowl.

OCEANITES FEED

2010-05-27T19:44:00.000-07:00

Check out this blog for up-to-date information about global warming in Antarctica.

VIDEO: LIFE IS A SOUVENIR

2010-05-13T20:54:00.000-07:00

Cool VIDEO of some friends in Antarctica, going about what we usually go about...zodiac fun, leopard seals, camping on the ice, passing massive ice bergs...you know, the usual...

GLACIERS IN ANTARCTICA

2010-05-12T06:05:00.000-07:00

ALL glaciers are huge in Antarctica. David Attenborough for the BBC shows us a few of them calving. These are more rotted than the ones we see. Most likely he chose this spot in order to find more calving. Scroll back for several pages to see photos of the ones we see most of, they're not so rotted. Still, they all calve the same way...huge/massive columns and faces simply crumble and fall into the waters below sometimes sending large tidal waves.

CAPE HORN MONUMENT

2010-02-27T05:34:00.000-08:00

I, the albatross that awaits at the end of the world...

I am the forgotten soul of the sailers lost,

Rounding Cape Horn from all the seas of the world.

But die they did not in the fierce waves

For today towards eternity

In my wings they soar

In the last crevice of the Antarctic winds.

We actually got to within 3nm of the monument this year. Silly Chileans. The military operates a base nearby and as this is their domain and we sail out of arch enemy Argentine waters they generally impose a 12nm limit. At that range it's impossible to view the monument. The photos are from land and are loaned by a friend. The monument was erected in 1992. It's always a thrill to see it from the ship but it doesn't happen often.

Cape Horn Monument.

Photos Capt. Alexander Pruss

RARE DAYS IN ANTARCTICA

2010-02-10T09:54:00.000-08:00

This was the rarest trip of all for me, not one single day of true, snarly Antarctic weather. There have been times when all we saw of the mountain tops were the shrouds of low clouds covering them...for an entire 10 days we've gotten sullen skies, rain, sleet, snow, you name it.
Other times we´ve had a mix of both, truly the best way to appreciate Antarctica in all is glory.
This trip, however, the sun shone faintly through high thin clouds or did its best to put on its spectacular show of intense, sunny brilliance.
Each day seemed calmer than the last.
So for the record:
RARE: Ten days of calm conditions and no hairy weather.
RARER STILL: Kayakers who wanted to spend the entire time kayaking! All six participated in 7 of the outings, with another two doing the last one for a total of 8. Good on ya, guys! You kept me busy in the best possisble way and I *heart* you for it.

IN THE DRAKE PASSAGE: The albatrosses were hard to find this trip, there was too much calm and they need wind. Calm days are sweet with less rocking of the ship but windy days with albatrosses and other wind loving seabirds are even sweeter. In this photos there's a black browed on the left with a wandering on the right.

CUVERVILLE ISLAND in the ERRERA CHANNEL. We do get to paddle in some awesome scenery! The wind can whip up a frenzy here at times but this day was dead calm. Our first outing these kayakers proved their mettle by circumnavigating the island...a rare treat as we glided quietly under cliff dwelling nesting blue eyed shags, gentoo penguins and snowy sheathbills.

On this rare day we made our way up to a gentoo colony, higher up for earlier breeding...that's where the snow burns off sooner than down low.

A relaxed description of the paddle trip and we were off and running.

We DO get to paddle in some awesome scenery!

A new ship for me this year, the Plancius. In fact a new ship for the company, too. Oceanwide Expeditions bought this sturdy research vessel in Holland and had it rebuilt there. Higher quality than an Ikea ship, it is laid out really well. And it rides nicely, too. Spacious and new, the kinks had almost all been worked out in the first trip by the time we got there for the second one.

The arch I call "don't even think about it!" We do line up off camera to pose for shots in front of arches like this so it kinda looks like we paddled through it but, unh uh, wouldn't dare, off limits. We've seen school bus sized flakes fall off the inside of these arches. Deadly for anyone in any type of vessel. Besides, with an iceberg as fragile as this the whole thing could come crumbling down at any second. The trick is to know exactly how far away, or how close we can safely be. Maybe another 30' closer and that would be it for me.

Sunsets like this aren't all that common. Conditions need to be perfect. This one night everything lined up and we were enthralled, no one wanted to go to bed. The sun sets around 11 and comes back up again around 2 or so. In the grand scheme of things on the planet we are closest to the sun after all.

Adelie penguins are finding it harder to make do on the islands they're accustomed to. They need ice to reproduce so they're heading further south as the Peninsula melts. We see the results each year now. At first it was barely discernible, now it's unmistakable, and heart breaking.

Brendan and Tom go for it on the last outing in the channels of the Melchior Islands.

Some things just need to be done. Brendan's exact words, "Jay-sus, it's cold!!!"

HAYLEY´S TRIP BEGINS

2010-02-06T13:33:00.000-08:00

An old kayaking friend, Hayley Shephard, had attempted to start her open water voyage kayaking all the way around South Georgia in the Southern Ocean, but unfortunately the skipper/owner of her support vessel suffered an injury and they beat a course back to Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands for surgery to his hand. She´s aboard the Northanger with her kayak until they reach SG.
It appears they´ll be sitting tight for a while as they work out Plan B.
You can follow her course here... Vessel Hayley.
South Georgia sits in the area where the Drake Passage "ends." That is, it receives the brunt of the weather systems that plow through there. A massive storm hit them as they made their way toward SG in the support vessel before they reached her starting point, leaving the sailing vessel hove-to for hours, bobbing around like a cork while the storm thrashed them about.
You can find updates here on Hayley´s Blog.
She´s attempting to become the first person to solo paddle around South Georgia, raising money and awareness for Save The Albatross.
All the very best, Hayley. We´re thinking of you all the way.

COLD WHISKEY

2010-02-06T13:25:00.000-08:00

Shackleton left behind several cases of whiskey back in the early 1900´s that was just blasted out of the ice. Cool story...

My planned itinerary

2010-01-21T09:12:00.000-08:00

26 January
Depart Ushuaia aboard the Plancius for a 10-day tour of the Antarctic Peninsula.

5 ~ 14 February
Shore time in Ushuaia.

14 February
Depart Ushuaia aboard the Multanovskiy for a second 10-day tour of the Antarctic Peninsula.

GETTING THERE

2009-12-26T06:00:00.000-08:00

"How does one GET to Antarctica?"
I get asked that a lot so I'll give you the quick down and dirty on global travel to my favorite destination.
Wherever in the world you start from, Australia, the UK, Canada or here in Trumansburg, NY, we're on a series of flights that converge in Buenos Aires, Argentina. For myself, I depart from Ithaca, change planes in Philadelphia then Miami and finally in BA.
Less than 5% of our passengers and staff arrive from a small city in Chile.
If you look at a map of South America it would seem BA is not that far down there. But hold on, the flight from Miami takes a full 8 hours! Look again, it's w-a-y down there, like 80% of the way down the east coast of SA.
From there we're on smaller jets that skirt the ocean and at some point, the last minute I'm hoping, head inland dropping down out of the clouds to view the southernmost part of the world. The Andes waits for us below the clouds and the views are spectacular. Snow covered jagged peaks in all directions as far as the eye can see, all crammed in so tightly you wonder how they manage to stand upright. That's why I'm grateful we're over the ocean for much of that 4.5 hour trip, the last leg of what for me is a 24-hour journey. Once a plane is lost in the Andes there's not much hope of survival or ever finding it again. On the safer side, if a plane goes down near shore, even a hugely remote section of shoreline, at least getting ashore would increase chances for survival.
The Aussies and Kiwis end up traveling a much longer trip, more like 36 hours or more.
The planes touch down in Ushuaia*, the Argentine capital of Tierra del Fuego state.
The entire region, and much more, including the west coast of Chile, is the area called Patagonia. You could spend a lifetime trekking there and only touch the tip of the ice berg, so numerous are the hiking opportunities.
From here we board our ship at the pier, head due east out the Beagle Channel and in six hours we've reached the beginning of the Drake Passage.
This crossing takes about two days, traveling 7-12 knots, depending on wind. Heavy westerlies from the Pacific can slow us down, creating swells that can reach 20-30' and more. Nature's in control and does have its way with us. Rarely does the wind push us from the north, if there's a following wind it's generally from the south.
Once we make sight of the South Shetland Islands our landings commence and the visitations to penguin colonies are under way.
We spend 6 days on the Peninsula, working our way south, on the west side of the arm that sticks out into the Southern Ocean. We're not entirely protected, there can be sustainable 40knot winds that can wreak havoc with our landing plans, it's all up to the weather gods.
Generally we can enjoy most of the planned landings on our itineraries but we always remind our passengers, it's out of our hands but we do the best we can. If not this landing, then perhaps the next.
Don't forget your location. Antarctica weather can be hell on wheels! That's why we're there, to experience all nature has to offer, weather included.
This is a once-in-a-lifetime journey. For some a lifelong dream.
Each time I depart Ushuaia bound for the Antarctic Peninsula I'm struck by the sheer grandeur of this experience. The enormous vastness and pristine quality of light and air in Antarctica is unlike anything found anywhere else on the planet. It gets deep in your soul and you want to go back again and again and again and...

(* pr. uh-SH-WHY-uh)

FOLLOWING THE SHIPS AT SEA

2009-11-05T11:43:00.000-08:00

I've been following a few of the many ships I've come to know as they travel back and forth between Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia.
You can too!
Global Marine Networking Vessel Tracking takes you everywhere! Among the many ships plying the Southern ocean this season are Clelia II, Expedition, Multinovsky, Corinthian II, Kapitan Khlebnikov, Orlova, Clipper, Vavilov, Ocean Nova, Nat Geo's new Explorer and a host of others. At the moment there are several tied up at the docks in Ushuaia, taking on provisions. Staff and passengers are arriving daily, it's an exciting time to be at the Southern tip of South America, headed out the Beagle Channel and down the Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula.
A few lucky ones have been to Snow Hill Island already. Emperor penguin chicks are growing and maturing. Soon the ice will have broken up and melted, the chicks fledged and all back out to sea, feeding.
Wishing those with the lifelong dream of seeing Antarctica the best of all possible trips, many adventures and safe travels.

WALTZING MY WAY TO OSWEGO

2009-10-06T12:46:00.001-07:00

Ten-day kayaking river trip. Check it out here. SIDETRIP.

BLUE WHALES!

2009-03-23T07:28:00.000-07:00

These are not our photos. They've been downloaded. They show the massive length of the blue whale and below, the way they feed. It's difficult getting good shots of them. Generally what we see is a very huge blow, straight up and a very powerful blast. This is followed by a low and very long back profile that seems to go on forever, followed by a very tiny dorsal fin, then they're gone beneath the surface. Even up close we could see the two-tone blue coloration but still had a hard time getting decent representative photos.

Above is a diagram of the Bransfield Straight, a huge body of water between the South Shetland Islands and NW of the mainland Antarctic Peninsula. It's here where more blue whales were taken than any place else on earth during the 60-year whaling industry slaughter. Elephant Island is above the NE corner of this vast body of water. Note Deception Island, the active volcanoe in the lower left. We sail into its 7-mile long cauldera to visit Whaler's Bay, where thousands of whale bones litter the bottom of the 1-mile bay.

This is the body of water where my Norwegian great grandfather and dozens of others took whales between 1904-1909. Their catch was focused on blues, fins, seis and humpbacks.

What were the conditions that created such an abundance of krill, the blue whales' staple, and made it enticing for them to populate these waters for their summer feeding?
We were lucky enough to spot two blue whales while in Antarctica this season. It's highly unusual, even rare, to see these largest mammals that are still roaming the earth.
In Antarctica they were nearly hunted to extinction and it is believed they associate the sound of ships' engines with the disappearance of their families. A combination of strong family ties, their keen memories and their very long lives (120+ years) has made them nearly invisible all these years.
They're seen in deep waters but rarely by the naked eye. Normally they've only been visible by sonar.
In fact, before this season, there were only two reported sightings. We can add to this list having spotted two of them off Elephant Island in February.

THE VIEWS FROM OUR KAYAKS

2009-03-14T04:31:00.000-07:00

2009-03-14T04:26:00.000-07:00

THE CLOSE PROXIMITY OF LEOPARD SEALS

2009-03-13T13:46:00.001-07:00

As long as we´re quiet and respectful leopard seals will spend time with us and not show aggression. The don´t appear stressed or anxious, simply curious. When they enjoy a penguin meal they don´t seem to mind us watching them.

After spending some time observing them we move on. They do, too, following us for a while until they find better things to do.

Below, Christine in the Ice Sculpture Garden.

I think I got the shot!

WHALES CLOSE IN

2009-03-13T13:39:00.000-07:00

Sometimes we get lucky and a curious whale or two will show up. They slow down, come over, sneak a glance at us as they cruise by. It´s thrilling for us but everyone once in a while we have a paddler who gets just a little too overstimulated...

Yes, that´s the snout of a humpback whale, just inches from Les´ bow. He didn´t mind.

Phil paddles with his "find" strapped to the bow. It was a headless, hollowed out penguin. We brought it back to the ship so all could see the structure of the hapless little fellow...leftovers from a leopard seal feed and the ensuing sea bird clean up. Nothing´s wasted here.

WE TAKE TURNS DRIVING ZODIAC...

2009-03-13T13:32:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it´s my turn, sometimes Christine´s...it´s a tough job!

Just two of the hats I´ve made this season. Christine models the macaroni penguin while mine is the gentoo penguin.

Awesome surroundings.

Ice bergs everywhere!

KAYAKING ON THE AKADEMIK IOFFE

2009-02-16T07:59:00.000-08:00

When we are ten or more kayakers sweet, gentle, guardian angel Sergei drives safety zodiac for us, leaving Christine and I to take care of our charges on the water. He´s been doing this for 10 years on both the Ioffe and the Vavilov, sister ship.

Sorry for the repeat photo below. This one´s good enough to share twice.

Sometimes we get lucky!

This one´s for you, Valerie Rice. Greetings from the Ioffe!

A FEW RANDOM SHOTS

2009-02-16T07:42:00.001-08:00

A curious leopard seal near the zodiac.

Sunset in the Lemaire Channel, taken from the north end.

Juvie blue eyed shags on a berg.

(Thanks to all passengers who contributed photos to our last voyage on the Ioffe.)

2009-02-16T07:36:00.000-08:00

WHERE THE MINKES PLAY

2009-02-16T07:27:00.000-08:00

(Scroll down for some awesome photos!)
I haven´t mentioned dwarf minke whales before but we´ve sure had our share of great encounters this season. This smaller species is more like 30´in length as opposed to the larger ones of 40-45´.
The dwarf species is easy to identify, it has a white pectoral fin as opposed to the darker grey of the larger species. These little whales are so playful!
They seem to be solitary creatures, hanging out mostly in bays and large coves where it´s a bit sheltered from the buffeting winds. They´re krill feeders and maybe they´re out in the bigger, more open waters but if they blow we likely wouldn´t see them anyway.
There are times when we´re lining up the passengers for a zodiac cruise or a beach landing when all of a sudden one of them will show up. They sometimes cruise right up to our zodiacs or the gangway!
We´ve had numerous friendly socializing encounters with them this year. Great luck!
On our last trip one of them appeared to attempt launching into the zodiac! Two trips back our 6 zodiacs played with one for over an hour, with it surfacing again and again for a look, spyhopping, jumping out of the water and landing on its back in a perfect breach and generally just hanging around oggling the tourists who were oggling it. We stayed out a half hour longer than was planned and when it was time to leave it followed us back to the ship, hanging around as one after another zodiac was lifted on the crane´s hook back onto the stern. As the last zodiac was being lifted it fairly jumped out of the water toward the zodiac. We observers really felt the behavior was one of it not wanting us to leave, as if it was trying to come with us.
It´s always touching when we make eye-to-eye contact with a wild creature but when one is so forward and friendly as these dwarf minke whales it borders on the spiritual.
Enjoy these photos, with a big thanks to Phil Wickens, Gayle Stokes, Darren Sutton and a few generous others.

DWARF MINKE WHALE GALLERY

2009-02-16T07:19:00.000-08:00

2009-02-16T07:13:00.001-08:00

2009-02-16T07:07:00.000-08:00

A FEW OF THE HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE LAST TRIP

2009-01-16T08:10:00.001-08:00

Reminder: Double click on photos to view in a larger size.
Above: Double arch ice berg.
Below: Minke whale fin.

Below: Blue eyed shag leaves the colony.

Next: Adelie penguins.

Photo credit: Sushi Suzuki

NEW ON YouTube

2009-01-15T04:15:00.000-08:00

The Antarctic Dream…video here.
This is a ship that sails from Ushuaia and does the same routes we do. I know a few of the staff that work/have worked on the ship. I don´t know what the Capt./and/or EL were thinking...or not thinking...this is totally off the wall, over the line, uncalled for.
If that ice berg had split down the middle afterwards the ship would have suffered damage, could have capsized and people could have been hurt. I´m very sure our office is going to make a very blunt statement to all our staff about this irresponsible behavior. I do not think any of our staff would ever ask a Capt. to do this. This is a horrible display of irresponsible behavior.

Word has it that this ship is the Voyager in a cyclone...the windows had been blown out by waves and as a result had lost all power. Which is most likely why the helicopter is standing by. I don´t know the ship and don´t know where this took place...it´s a horrible situation. View it.

RANDOM KAYAK SHOTS

2009-01-11T13:39:00.000-08:00

Above: riding the swells behind Petermann Island on the Drake Passage side.
Below: sure do love my new Aqua Bound paddle! Thanks, AB!

Curious gentoo.

More of the swells behind Petermann Island.

The lee side of Petermann Island offered benign paddling back to our mother ship, the Akademik Shokalskiy.

Look closely for the tiny yellow specks in the great big landscape. That would be us. We´re behind Half Moon Island with Livingston Island in the background with its 5,000m peaks.

ICE WORLD

2009-01-11T13:38:00.001-08:00

Above: light manteled sooty albatross...my sister´s favorite...all the ornithologists say that and for good reason...they´re quite endearing.

FATTENING UP AND FEELIN´FINE

2009-01-11T13:21:00.001-08:00

This Weddell seal is looking well fed already. It´ll continue for two months more to load up for its long journey into endless night. The Weddells live beneath the pack ice in winter and rarely feed during the 4 months of complete darkness. They´ll use their teeth to keep breathing holes open in the ice, the males defending them from other males. The larger the holes the more females they can attract. Aging Weddells die of starvation, their teeth worn down to the point where they´re no longer able to eat.
They have an enormous range of vocalizations that are beautiful and eerie and sound almost synthesizer-like at times. These sounds are generally heard underwater but on some rare occasions we hear them making sonar-like sounds in their sleep.
They´re normally solitary creatures so we´ve considered ourselves lucky to see 10-12 of them hauled out on a low icy slope, snoozing peacefully. This one´s on an ice floe.

This fat leopard seal seems happy, too. At least for now he´s quite content sleeping off a good penguin feed.

BLUE EYED SHAGS
When we came upon this pair one of them was just flying off. Less than 5 minutes later it returned with this big clump of dried moss. It might have come from very nearby, the moss is thicker and brighter green this year than last. The scene is from the cliffs near Almirante Brown station in Paradise Harbour.

When the mate returned with the moss both set to work immediately in an equal display of teamwork. They set about packing bits of it into their nest. You´ll notice the ropes in the nest. Like birds everywhere, these cormorants make use of whatever nesting materials they can find. The ropes in the nest hang a good 3´down. It´s an old nest, one we´ve seen for at least the last 5 years. They just get added to each year and are used again and again.

The Adelie penguins are the smallest we see. They also are the southernmost breeders, nesting on bare rock like the other two in the brushtail group...gentoos and chinstraps.

This isn´t the greatest photo of our zodiac cruise through the sewing machine needles off Deception Island...but if you look closely you´ll see an albatross in the lower left hand corner...probably a black browed. It´s kinda rare to see them so close to land when they´re out of their territory.

IT´S A PENGUIN´S LIFE.

2009-01-11T13:15:00.001-08:00

WHERE JESUS CHRIST BIRDS WALK ON WATER

2009-01-11T12:54:00.000-08:00

The last planned activity before departing the Antarctic Peninsula on Thursday was a stop off at the Melchior Islands. We´d had generous amounts of quiet time in the zodiacs (as well as a higher than normal 8 trips out by kayak) but we knew we´d be in for a treat where we were headed. The staff was abuzz as we´re all familiar with our normal up close encounters with humpbacks in this area.
The Melchiors are a cluster of islands with channels, creek and fjords running between and in and out of them. Swells come in from the Drake Passage and surge through the channels making for some thrilling zodiac riding...small time surfing if conditions are just right...ie, if the surge is not too big, otherwise it can be hazardous.
We´d been having wonderful encounters with humpies throughout the trip with the arrival of the mothers and calves and other adult groups to begin their six feeding frenzy.
One evening we quietly zodiac cruised in Paradise Bay while three separate groups fed at the surface, some blowing bubble nets, others merely lunge feeding. Enormous gaping mouths appeared at the surface gulping down huge amounts of water filled with krill. We were so hoping for one last encounter with the gargantuan transients.
What happened next was nothing less than spiritual.
The Wilson´s storm petrel is the smallest sea bird we see in Antarctica. It has a wide range worldwide, they´re also seen off Senegal. At sea we may be accompanied by 1-2-3 at a time, and they´re a joy to watch. They zoom around and are impossible to photograph. The scale is too huge, we´re too far away and they move way too fast. They´re mostly solitary creatures.
So it was with particular joy when we rounded a bend into the most shallow little fjord and found two dozen of them hopping around on the water! Their long spindly legs end in the tiniest little webbed feet, about an inch across. They´re also known as the Jesus Christ bird as they seem to walk on water!
Actually, what they´re doing is churning up the krill, exciting them to come to the surface. The little cluster of birds was working the krill as a team and for much of the time they looked like a cluster of butterflies with wings held upwards, fluttering furiously. As soon as it happened it was over again, the krill had been lured but quickly fell out of sight once again, they´d then reform and the birds would have at it again.
Not only did some of our passengers get fantastic photos, see below, but we also had our own close up time with them. Once in a while one of them would swoop across our bow, just inches from us! I´ve been absolutely longing to see this ephemeral little bird for ages, five years now.
Fifty of us sat mesmerized in 6 dead silent zodiacs for nearly an hour watching this magical little water dance.
We came for the behemoths and settled for the tiniest bird, the size of a humpback´s eye, but with all the strength, stamina and thirst for miles, and krill.
Each trip has its singular highlight, one that stands out above the rest. It was the magical moment with Wilson´s storm petrels that captivated our hearts.
Within half an hour of leaving them behind we were back on board ship and disappearing over the horizon in the Drake Passage, headed back to Ushuaia.

WILSON´S STORM PETRELS

2009-01-11T12:50:00.000-08:00

Photo credits for the above 22 photos:

Alex Nacastia, Netherlands

Alison and Neil, Sri Lanka

Anita Daily, South Africa

Annelise La Roche, UK

Bill Daly, South Africa

Coenraad Vermaak, South Africa

Geoff McKeown, New Zealand

Gerald Dubowitz, California, USA

Graham Chant, South Africa

Janet Addis, New Zealand

Raewyn Empson, New Zealand

Rob Noakes, New Zealand

HAPPY NEW YEAR, FRIENDS AND FAMILY!

2008-12-31T09:26:00.000-08:00

As we pass from 2008 to 2009 we´ll have just passed back into the Drake Passage for another trip to the Antarctic Peninsula. With new passengers aboard, all tired from up to 48 hours of travel to get here, and with staff exhausted from the last trip we may make it a short night.
I´ll be thinking of you at this time, wishing you well for another year filled with joy, new discoveries, peace, love and the joy of the abundance of life surrounding you.
Our time here is short, our lives a privilege.
I´m grateful for all the pleasure life has brought and hope it continues for all of us.
Wishing you much cheer in your New Year.

A PENGUIN STORY

2008-12-31T09:12:00.000-08:00

Sitting at the edge of the colony provides a window into the lives of Adelie penguins, seen here late in the day on Snow Hill Island.

Penguins come ashore to breed and nest, which are built of stones and pebbles. Hilarity ensues as they attempt to steal from each other. They usually wait until the neighbor´s back is turned then grab the desired pebble and run for it. Of course the pebble then gets stolen by the next neighbor and so on.
Scat is blown out the back end, creating radial blasts. White guano indicates fish for dinner, pink for krill.

Skuas circle overhead waiting for a penguin to step away from the nest. They pick the egg up with their beaks, carry it safely away, preload for a strike then with one strong blow create a hole in the shell and eat out the contents. The beaches are littered with these empty eggs. Perhaps that´s why most penguins have two eggs.

RAISING CHICKS TO MATURITY

2008-12-31T09:04:00.000-08:00

Lucky the parents that raise both chicks to maturity. Young will be targets for skuas and southern giant petrels, combing the colonies for the weakest.

It´s sometimes a long trek to shore. Gentoo penguins, but you get the idea.

The constant threat of a lurking leopard seal in the water creates shoreside hesitation.

Back at sea for much needed feeding, cleaning and a good stretch out, swimming.

CONSTANT DANGER

2008-12-31T08:57:00.000-08:00

A penguin´s life at sea is wrought with danger. Leopard seals patrol the waters near colonies, hanging around in shallow water or just off ice shelves awaiting their next feed. Frequently penguins line up on shore, hesitant to launch into the water. Finally a huge crowd surges forward and the first ones launch. The rest follow. Some unlucky ones end up as a meal for a hungry leopard.

They thrash the penguin around until the skin peels off, revealing the tender flesh inside.

They then break off bits of the carcass and flip it slightly into the air, lining it up for a quick gulp down the hatch.

RETURNING FROM A FEED

2008-12-31T08:49:00.000-08:00

Returning from a successful feed...bellies full.

Finding their way back to their nests, these penguins may walk up to a mile straight uphill to reach their mates and relieve them. The early breeders are found on the highest open areas, the first that are free of snow and ice.

Chubby and happy.

So full it can hardly walk.

It´s hard to picture but their feathers are curved and about 2.5" long. This traps an abundance of warm air next to the skin. Penguins have very little blubber on them for warmth. Their bodies are almost entirely muscle, much needed to propel themselves through the water. The skeletons are light and very thin bone, like all birds.

Tails are for steering, flippers for propulsion as well. They´re beautiful when they return from sea, all fresh and shiny with the oil they´ve spread over themselves. They express it from a gland found just above the tail.

WOO HOO! HITCHING A RIDE ON A ZODIAC!

2008-12-31T08:40:00.000-08:00

I don´t think this was an intentional ride. This hapless chap was attempting to outwit the leopard seal who was out scouting for another meal.

This is a rare happening. Although, if you check out the link below it wouldn´t seem so. This was a first for me! And our Expedition Leader who´s worked down here for 7 full seasons now.

Other times they hitch a ride, or simply rest, on passing ice bergs. Penguins spend their off-breeding cycles out at sea, eating, fattening up and resting on ice floes just outside the ice that extends off the continent. When the ice breaks up the early breeders find their way to those high up spots where the snow melts first, completing another cycle for one more year.

OTHER BLACK AND WHITE BIRDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

2008-12-31T06:47:00.000-08:00

This Pintado, or Cape or painted petrel came in with 4 other species of birds to clean up a penguin kill after the leopard seal returned to hunting.
Below, a Pintado flies above the carnage with a Wilson´s storm petrel and a kelp gull.

The Wilson´s storm petrel is the hardest to photograph and are a constant companion. They fly alongside the ship through the entire Drake Passage. They´re also the smallest of the sea birds this far south. We see them a bit more close up in the inland waterways, and many times nesting on high up cliffs. Some call them the Jesus Christ bird, as they appear to walk on the water, apparently to stir up small bits of copepods or krill.
Well done, Manisha, for capturning THREE of them in one photo!

The snowy sheathbill is a poop eater with a very homely face. It´s rather pretty if you can get past the face.

The more graceful and appetizing bird is the snow petrel. This bird seems to hang out near high hanging glaciers, preferring to nest high up in the nearby crags. They´ve been seen at the South Pole, flying hundreds of miles inland just to breed.

The blue eyed shag, or Antarctic cormorant, is a stately bird. The yellow protuberance on the top of its bill enlarges during mating. The blue eye is actually a ring around the eye but is quite striking. During mating the males sport tall crowns at the front of the head.

Antarctic terns return from the Arctic each spring to breed and nest. They frequently dive bomb us while we´re kayaking. If they carry on and squawk too much it´s apparent we´re too near their nests and must back away. It´s never happened to me but some report getting a sharp stab on the top of the head if you´re too close. Love the orange feet!

OTHER SEA CREATURES

2008-12-31T06:41:00.000-08:00

Two species of jellyfish. Don´t ask me which, I´ll have to look them up when I return home. Anyone?

The one below was floating just under the surface. Notice the little piece of ice.

MERRY CHRISTMAS, FRIENDS!

2008-12-21T09:38:00.001-08:00

From Grytviken, South Georgia, where great grandfather Alex Lange set foot around 1905-07. That´s our Home Sweet Home, the Akademik Shokalskiy, at anchor.

The "weaners" have been the outstanding highlight of this past trip.

Photo credits at end.

A FEW IMAGES FROM THE FALKLANDS AND SOUTH GEORGIA ISLANDS

2008-12-21T09:30:00.000-08:00

A rare sight...On the left is the black browed albatross, on the right is the wandering. At 9-12´the wanderings are the largest of all the albatrosses. Thanks to Martin Enckel for this fantastic photo.
Below, the black headed tyrant bird of the Falklands, perched on blooming gorse.

A beach on the Falklands with over two hundred Magellanic penguins.

Striking markings on the Magellanics.

Yes, my gardening friends, this is wild thrift! In the Falklands.

A juvenile night heron, seemingly unafraid, he hung out with us on the beach for a long while, just slowly walking around, cocking his head sideways at us now and then.

Adelie penguins.

2008-12-21T09:25:00.000-08:00

The earliest chicks are born on higher ground where the snow melts first.

Macaroni penguins marching to sea.

Albatross Beauty.

Kings in their habitat.

Random images from the Falklands.

2008-12-21T09:16:00.001-08:00

Oyster catchers.

Bonding behavior among couples who mate for life. Black browed albatrosses.

Albatrosses nest high on cliffs with a constant wind flow off the ocean. When they need to fly they simply raise their wings and lift off. They´re designed for soaring and as such have few or no flapping muscles. We´re privileged to visit these high aeries. Our presence means nothing to them, they go about their business as if we don´t exist.

Visit Save the Albatross, they´re doing good work to try and reverse the devastation on the species by long line fishing. We hold auctions on the ship to raise funds to support this effort. So far this season we´ve raised nearly $4,000. I´ve knitted two hats that fetched a combined $800 which goes directly to the fund in the UK.

Rock hopper penguin on the nest.

King pengiuns.

King penguin chicks creching awaiting the time when their brown down begins to molt. And of course the ever present elephant seals.

More shots of life on the beach in S. Georgia

2008-12-21T09:03:00.001-08:00

Snowy sheathbills may not have impeccable manners but they make the most of feeding on carcasses and penguin poop, preferably fresh!

Oh, you beautiful baby!

A Very Happpy Gentoo Penguin

2008-12-21T09:01:00.000-08:00

This video from YouTube just appeared in my inbox. We´ve never seen anything like it but it could have happened on any of our trips. The scary thing is that the very smart orcas sometimes tip over ice bergs to get their penguin meal. It´s a miracle they didn´t tip over this particular zodiac! Check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJaMtBKnN-I

Bonding rituals when albatrosses return from sea.

2008-12-21T08:53:00.000-08:00

Fur seal and king penguins on a Falkland Island.

Yoga stretch, a weaner on the beach making the most of its flexibility...we should all be so lucky.

King penguins with a nearly full grown chick. In another week or two this chick will be sloughing off its brown feathery down and a gorgeously colored mature penguin will emerge. This one´s begging for a feed but the parents are nearly done with their duty. As soon as the mature plumage appears this juvenile will be out to sea, feeding on its own.

"She had the most beautiful commas he´d ever seen..." Diane Ackerman

PHOTO CREDITS

Benine du Toit

Dan Perez

Jamie Scarrow

Karin Lundstrom

Margie Hidden (keep the hat warm!)

Maxe Ewalt

Michael du Toit

Pete Macay

Phil Wickens

Shanti Davis

Willem Oets

Zak Basson

2008-12-03T07:25:00.000-08:00

BELOW are some images from the first two trips this season. The first was to the Falkland and South Georgia islands and onto the Antarctic Peninsula. The second trip was down to the Peninsula and back. Today we depart once again for the Falklands and South Georgia and on to the Peninsula once again. The weather has been mostly good to great. We just missed a 60 knot gale that closed in just after we departed our last landing at Half Moon Island in the South Shetlands. We´d started at the southern end of the route and travelled north. Good thing. The other ships in the area that had started at the northern end got blown off all their landings for two full days. Sheer luck and maybe the weather gods are with us. Some say it´s all our good karma... =)
The next posting will be December 22.
Be sure to check Older Posts to access all photos from both trips. It´s found in the lower right at the bottom of the last post on each page.
Cheers!

2008-12-03T07:17:00.000-08:00

Above, leaping gentoos. They porpoise like this to grab a breath of air.
Below, our reflections as the ship relocates between landings in calm channels.

An apparently gleeful Adelie penguin, mid-toboggan.

2008-12-03T07:10:00.000-08:00

Sunset over Danco Island, from up on top with a gentoo penguin colony. It was about 11:00 p.m.

Mother and pup leopard seal...see story below.

Leopard seal pup, a rare sight.

Gorgeous, voluptuous ice bergs off Useful Island.

The view from above Almirante Brown, an Argentine station. The area is called Pradise Bay and frequently has just this kind of weather. Not always, of course, but on a clear day it´s possible to see over a hundred miles. Mountain peaks and glaciers as far as the eye can see. With no pollution it´s not hard to imagine why. But without the atmosphere we´re used to scale is distorted. For instance, the point to the left is about 5 miles away!

2008-12-03T06:53:00.000-08:00

Above: toboganning uphill or down is the best way for travel over deep soft snow.

Pintados over the ocean, in constant accompaniment with the ship in the open seas.

A rare glimpse of a mother leopard seal and its pup, playing in the water. Watching their play was mesmerizing. Rolling over and over, and lolling about, it was apparent the mother was giving the pup time to swim and learn to fish. There were thousands of krill in this calm back bay, behind Enterprise Island. The pup is not fully weaned, otherwise it would be off on its own. We had a great viewing, with mother calm and never feeling threatened.

These two are funny little birds. The only bird in Antarctica without webbed feet the snowy sheathbill eats penguin guano, preferring it fresh. We´ll just leave it at that.

While kayaking we found this little Weddell seal pup all by itself on Deception Island, lolling about in fresh water trickling down from the peaks.

Kayaking in the snow...it doesn´t get any better than this!!!

The captain and Expedition Leader, Shane, take particular delight in crashing through ice. This is the only time of year we get to do this here. Some of the bergs were big enough to rock the ship. A big group of us stood at the bow, gazing down at the constant cracking and shuffling of the bergs. In another week or two this ice will all have been blown out to sea, gone for the season.

Shanti caught this great shot of a leopard reposing on a floe, digesting its meal. They raise their heads in sleepy curiosity but we carefully avoid disturbing them or sending them into the water. Their job is to digest and it´s not up to us to disturb the process. Leopards frequently echolocute in their sleep. It´s eerie, hauntingly beautiful and sounds just like sonar.

The ultimate in Mother Ship kayaking. We frequently paddle far away and out of sight and sound of the ship. We´re in constant contact with VHF radios with the bridge of the ship and expedition team. At times when we´re separated by large land masses the safety zodiac driver carries a long range radio.

SPENDING TIME IN THE FALKLANDS AND SOUTH GEORGIA, HOME OF ELEPHANT SEALS, KING PENGUINS, ALBATROSSES AND THOUSANDS OF OTHER WONDERFUL BIRDS.

2008-12-03T06:40:00.000-08:00

King penguins out for a stroll.

Gorgeous coloring.

Sheesh. Set your backpack down for a second and someone snags it for a pillow.

2008-12-03T06:38:00.001-08:00

Cute little elephant seal pup...a weaner.

SNOW LEOPARD

2008-12-03T06:36:00.001-08:00

2008-12-03T06:28:00.001-08:00

Pintados, or Painted Cape Petrels, accompany us almost everywhere we travel. They seem to tease the wave crests with the tips of their wings. Sometimes they settle on the water, resting. Other times they can be seen feeding on bits of krill or small fish at the surface kicked up by our passing ship. They´re occasionally found near isolated islands in large colonies, nesting in the high cliffs. One of the most favorite birds in Antarctica.

Expedition Leader, Shane, keeps up steady reassuring chatter with this beach master elephant seal. He´s holding down a fur seal pup under the parka. It had been wrapped around the middle with plastic cords, probably junk floating on the ocean. The cuts on the small pup were deep, it probably won´t make it but it was impossible to stand by and do nothing. The elephant seal backed down but kept up its threatening bellow, just to let Shane know who´s boss.

Shanti adroitly cuts the pup free, the elephant seal appearing calmer now.

IT´S THAT TIME OF YEAR

2008-12-03T06:20:00.001-08:00

This cara cara was an unwelcome intruder in the rockhopper colony. The big predator was probably seeking out a weak penguin for a meal.

Black browed albatrosses engage in endless hours of gentle and tender preening in their bonding rituals.

Giant petrels fighting on the beach for dominance over the feed. See below.

This dominant giant petrel maintained his position at the kill and got the best feed.

Another curious onlooker.

2008-12-03T06:07:00.000-08:00

This one´s for you, Donna. Taken at Shackleton´s burial site at Grytviken, South Georgia, with the Shokalskiy in the background. Thanks, Matt, for the photo.

A member of the albatross family the giant petrel is graceful in flight. Smaller than the albatross they also ride the thermals and accompany the ship whenever there´s good wind.

This juvenile wandering albatross, among the largest of the albatrosses, was feeling the wind, playing for hours building strength to one day lift off and sail thousands of miles on the oceans´ wind currents. We watched as it lifted off its nest then settled back down again, holding its wings aloft the entire time. Still dependent, its parents are off feeding, returning at 2-3-4 day intervals to regurgitate squid and fish into its gullet.

At a feed giant petrels take on a diferent personality. As kings of the beach clean-up they have a nose for fresh blood, fighting for dominance over the right to feed on the juiciest bits. The fights involve lots of wing span flashing, chest bashing and chasing each other around with tails up, hackles up and eyes glaring. Some will stay off the side, practicing tactics, getting psyched then running into the fray only to be chased out by the more dominant ones. In the background are skuas, here waiting there turn at the feed. In the inland waterways where there´s not enough wind to support giant petrel flight they´re the kings of the feed, normally found snatching and making off with penguin eggs or hapless chicks held by the neck. Everyone´s got to eat.

King penguin chicks creching, awaiting parents return for a fresh feed.

2008-12-03T05:55:00.001-08:00

Maybe a litte homely now but once the feathers are gone what emerges is a most beautiful penguin, the King penguin, smaller than the Emperor but much more gorgeous coloring, with shimmering orange, yellow and gold. This colony of thousands is at St. Andrews Bay in the Falkland Islands.

The boardwalk is new this year, constructed as a means to climb the slippery hill without causing more erosion. It´s Prion Island where we climb up and up to the rare wandering albatross colony. It´s closed now to allow uninterrupted breeding among the pairs. On the walk up last trip we encountered a snarly male fur seal, staking his claim. If you fall for their bluff you will surely be attacked. Their mouths are full of nasty bacteria and a flesh wound can take months to heal. Poke them in the chest a few times with a simple wand and they back down.

Paddling in front of a grounded glacier face, these are not so dangerous. It´s the ones that form tongues and project out onto the water that can cause the most mayhem for kayakers. If a grounded glacier calves the shoreline will most likely break its fall.

One fine morning with a very curious leopard seal. We found him guarding his ice berg. A few moments chatting quietly with him and he ventured over to check us out. He kept coming back to my kayak for some reason. He spent half an hour with us, circling around, looking at us, spyhopping here and there among the kayaks. After a long while, as I was looking to me right, he came up and ever so slightly he touched my left elbow with the tip of his nose. I jumped a mile, jerking my arm away. He stayed calm and came back up to see what the commotion was. At that time I decided to round up the kayakers and head back to our launching site. He followed us the whole way, still curious and not once displaying any signs of aggression. The touch on the elbow though...that was just TOO close for comfort.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES

2008-11-23T08:57:00.000-08:00

Sorry, friends. I just spent an hour loading about 20 great photos with a few little stories and it didn´t take. Now I´ve run out of time and need to get back to the pier. I can´t wait to spend some Q time next time ashore with the computer and get a bunch of photos loaded to share with you.

We´ve just returned from an 18-day trio that was fantastic! Great passengers, amazing wildlife encounters and a wonderful time for all. The itinerary was Falklands, South Georgia, South Orkneys and finally the Antarctic Peninsula.

I´ll be sure to add a big pile of photos and some stories in 10 days time.

For now it´s back to the ship. We sail in two hours.

Leavin' on a jet plane

2008-10-31T04:10:00.000-07:00

The Akademik Shokalskiy sets sail once again for the Antarctic season on Wednesday, November 5, with a longer than usual first trip. It's an 18-day jaunt out to the Falkland Islands and South Georgia to see the albatross in their nesting colonies and the two massive King penguin colonies, the largest on earth.
With luck we'll get 'attacked' by the elephant seal 'weaners,' the pups that have been left on their own by their parents. They're quite fat and capable of putting on tons of weight on their own. But they're still seeking a bit of warm flesh so here's the trick: sit very still, reposing if possible, until they come over and plant a big wet one on your cheek! I've seen the photos from other early seasons in the past but now's my chance to get lined up for a hit. If it's successful I'll post the photo.
After this longer trip we'll settle into a routine of 10-day trips down to the Peninsula. Sometime in mid-December is when the humpbacks begin their annual return for feeding. First the big males arrive, singly or in small groups. Then a week or two later, the females with their young.
I recall one evening two years ago, around 10:30, while checking in on the bridge before heading to sleep. It's a fun routine, saying goodnight in Russian to the watch officers, catching one last glimpse of the day before finally giving in to fatigue. There were about 10 of us on the bridge, just looking out ahead, enjoying the moment in the dimming light. We were in a wide channel, about the width of Cayuga Lake at Taughannock (a mile) headed for a T-intersection with another channel. Suddenly we saw not one or two, but three whale blows. Then flukes, and tails and it seemed everywhere we looked, surrounding us, were whales!
Humpbacks.
All around us sixteen whales were moving and cavorting their way through the channel, past us on both sides. Of course they're always curious so a few ventured near us, rolling, showing bellies, flukes and generally slowing down to watch us. We made a call on the intercom and were quickly joined by another 20 or so passengers, most in pajamas, as we ooed and ahhed watching this large group of humpbacks making their way south. The humpbacks had arrived. It's a moment I'll never forget.
By comparison in hindsight later in the season, it's apparent that the whales are in need of this feed. By the end of the season they actually appear fattened up. That is, when they're seen from the rear diving they simply look fat. At the beginning of the season this massive girth is not so evident.
The krill are abundant and somehow the whales know where to find them.

OFF TO THE ANTARCTIC!!!

2008-10-28T07:01:00.000-07:00

We start our journey this year in the Falkland Islands and South Georgia. You may recall that last year there wasn't much kayaking in those locations. This year we hope to change that a bit...it might be a challenge! Walking slowly and quietly among the thousands of nesting pairs of King Penguins in the largest colonies in the world is a thrill that might be hard to match out on the water. They'll be busy courting and mating about now, or maybe some early successes sitting on eggs, so there will be lots of activity to report on.
The albatross colonies will be immensely busy right now, too.
The closest we can get is a few very short feet. It's a tough act to match if we distanced ourselves by kayak!
Another of the early season treats in store is the visitation by the weaner elephant seals. There are dozens of big fat babies charging around the beach, with parents nearby, the older juvenlies roaring and trying out their fighting tactics. But those babies still seeking warm skin have been rejected by their mothers and are on the hunt for a replacement of sorts. They seek out warm flesh and it can get quite funny watching them slug-slither and shimmy toward you with eager faces. THAT'S the photo op I seek!
Start watching here around November 25 for the first update. Then we'll swing into an update schedule of every 10 days or so after that. I'll keep you posted.
Cheers.

2008-10-03T14:08:00.001-07:00

NEW!
How to dress for cold weather kayaking. Now on YouTube! Click HERE. Featuring a full Gore Tex dry suit and all the underpinnings.
Also enjoy the video created by Colorado Kayak, featuring dry pants and dry top, an affordable alternative. You'll find the link to the right on the YT page.

2008-07-11T18:46:00.000-07:00

Click on Kayaking the Arctic High Latitudes for all new postings.

KAYAKING THE ARCTIC HIGH LATITUDES

2008-07-09T10:51:00.000-07:00

Spitsbergen/Svalbard Islands, Norway
On tap for August: A sea kayaking adventure through the waters of the extreme North, 600 miles from the North Pole in the kingdom of the Polar Bear.
Other kayakers have been taken by the stunning and stark beauty of the high arctic archipelago. Now it's our turn.
Our company, Quark Expeditions, is now offering kayaking in the Arctic for the first time. At this very moment my contemporary Tim is exploring and laying down a few routes for us. I'll be on the ship to take his place early August. I'll pick up where he left off, choosing a few good sites for paddling.
It's clear that we will be completely away from civilization, in the high northern latitudes, on our own and coping with the whims of nature in the far North.
With its rugged mountains, sweeping tundra, ice caps and glaciers, it's a true High Arctic archipelago.
Only 600 miles from the North Pole, this is one place on the map that's remote, beautiful, pristine and can offer no-place-like-it-on-earth sea kayaking and wildlife viewing. Here we'll experience seabirds thronging the cliffs and shores; enjoy the awesome playfulness of whales and dolphins at sea while seals and walruses haul out on the rocks and ice floes. We'll be thrilled by a sighting of reindeer, Arctic fox and the amazing Ursus Maritimus.
The fjords in the area we hope to explore are situated roughly in the mid-west of the archipelago, around the 79th parallel. Others await us, too.
Krossfjorden, is one. This fjord consists of several steep sided fjords with high glaciers and ice falls. These are good bird cliffs with guillemots, kittiwakes, Little Auks, glaucous gulls and puffins. Nearby on the tundra is where to find reindeer, arctic fox and maybe polar bears.
Kingsfjord, the Bay of Kings, is a majestic fjord where we'll find a more open landscape, with gentle tundra and magnificent, wide views on glaciers and ice caps. Here the northernmost village of the world, Ny-Ålesund (78° 55´ North), is located. The arctic coastline of Spitsbergen offers some of the finest scenery, most interesting historic and prehistoric sites and best wildlife experiences anywhere in the northern hemisphere.
The adventure awaits.
My next posting will most likely be from Longyearbyen once I've landed and found my hotel room. I have one day on land before my ship departs. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for stopping in!

A LITTLE GEOGRAPHY LESSON

2008-07-04T12:02:00.000-07:00

The Dutch, who discovered this land (these islands) in 1596 named it Spitsbergen, meaning 'pointed mountains.' Norwegians now use the Viking word Svalbard, which means 'cold coast,' as the name for the entire archipelago in recognition that Vikings may have reached it in the 12th centruy. The name Spitsbergen is reserved for the largest of the three main islands. The others are named Nordaustlandet and Edgeoya and have no populations.
For most of its history the archipelago was a no man's land but that changed in 1925 with the ratification of the Treaty of Spitsbergen. This granted full sovereignty over the archipelago to the Kingdom of Norway and requires Norway to preserve Svalbard's fauna and flora, and to prohibit any military activity. Under the treaty citizens of the 40 signatory states have equal rights with Norway to engage in mining, fishing and other commercial activities. Coal mining is the main industry here.
There are only 4 population centers: Sveagruva, Barentsburg, Longyearbyen and Ny-Alesund.
Longyearbyen is perhaps the most modern. It's a colorful town with a high standard of living. Named after the American businessman, John Munro Longyear, who pioneered coal mining in the area. It's the capital of Svalbard and has a year round population of about 1,250. All this time I thought it was named in recognition of having the longest days of the year in summer of just about anywhere else on earth.
The highest point of the midnight sun is 21 June, but it's daylight 24/7 for several weeks including the time I am there. Should I bring eye shades?
The island group is situated at 76 - 82 latitudes, or 600 miles from the North Pole (see locator maps below). It consumes an area of about 24,000 square miles, roughly the size of West Virginia. Sixty percent is covered with snow and glaciers, only 10% has any vegetation. Pack ice prevents access to most shores for most of the year. The highest peak is Eldsvolfjellet at 1,454 meters, or about 4,362 feet. I have a feeling the most transitory news and unpredictable circumstances will be pack ice and fast ice, where it is located and where it is not. Its absence presents us safe passage opportunities, but too much absence could be a sign of global warming.

GOING NORTH

2008-07-03T20:09:00.000-07:00

It's only a month away now and time's flying! Sorry the above maps are not very sophisticated, I've simply snapped photos of the maps themselves...there must be an easier way to do this. I've tried and it isn't working. It'll have to suffice for now.

Svalbard is the destination. You can see it's closer to Greenland than anywhere else yet it's a territorial dependent of Norway. Same lanuguage, customs and currency.

Mys sister's friend, Jason Roberts, a cinematographer working for the BBC's David Attenborough, lives in Longyearbyen. He tells me, "Forget it, you're not kayaking around Longyearbyen. Too many polar bears."

Polar bears are a constant threat on land, and at sea the walruses are in the thousands.

We know that polar bears swim for many miles and are top on the food chain in the Arctic. But a funny thing happens in the water...they're easily confused by power boats so will turn and veer away if they spot us. Remember, we paddle with a safety zodiac tailing us at all times. The driver will have a scare gun but it's the walruses that can really do the most damage. The males will charge out and stab boats with their massive tusks if we should wander too close. I can't imagine what that might do to a plastic kayak! Since the breeding beaches they're trying to protect are odoriferous and can be detected for miles we really don't run much risk of getting too close to them.

I'll keep you posted as things progress. I'll be in the Arctic from early August until early September, leading two trips with a third trip spent ashore...our ship is being chartered w/o kayaking. I'll get to spend 10 days hiking around Svalbard. Maybe I can hitch a ride aboard the mail boat and see some other sights as well. Should be an adventure!

OFF TO THE ARCTIC!

2008-06-25T11:36:00.000-07:00

It's only 5 short weeks now and I'll be departing for my first trip to the Arctic. It's WAY up there! Above are locater maps for the areas we'll be visiting.

Excitement mounts.

Sister Sue leaves Thursday, June 26 for her tour of duty aboard the Kapitan Khlebnikov, the largest ecotourism ship cruising the polar waters, Antarctica as well as the Arctic. She's no stranger to this ship...she's been Expedition Leader on the KK for nearly 17 years. It's practically her home.

My departure is August 2, I'll be returning home in early September.

Within our company we've already had 2-3 weeks of fine sailing but the ship I am scheduled to be aboard is still in a repair yard somewhere in Poland. Several of our staff have been flown there from Svalbard and are sailing with the ship when it finally departs for the Arctic. On the first trip of the season our EL mailed me an account of getting to within 70' of an enormous walrus wallow! And they've seen polar bears swimming.

CHRIS AND JANE IN GREENLAND

2008-06-08T14:18:00.001-07:00

I've just received a Comment from a lovely couple living in Uummannaq, Greenland. You can find their blog here as well as in the Link section at left. What an amazing life they're living in Greenland!
Here's a Greenland map for you, Chris and Jane live halfway down the west side.
I recall hearing that Uummannaq is a birthplace and a hot spot for kayaking. More on that later after I do a little research...
Quark Expeditions will take kayaking to the Svalbard Islands and Greenland for the first time this summer. I'll be on board my home ship, the Shokalskiy, to kayak guide in August. I'll surely keep you posted on this new development!

WELCOME DAVE EICHORN!

2008-05-18T05:03:00.001-07:00

My most favorite meteorologist in the whole world! If you've seen Dave on News Channel 9 (ABC/WSYR Syracuse) and you think he's animated that's nothing! Wait 'til you see him in person, talking about his passion...global climate conditions. Phew! What a load of energy and passion, plus his downloads from NOAA, NASA and BSA are outstanding.
I had the privilege of hearing Dave speak for the first time yesterday when he presented Global Climate Change In Your Backyard at Montezuma Wildlife Refuge.* Dave deftly described what events are occurring and how they relate to our weather patterns, not only now but what could be happening in the future. It's more than a little alarming and disturbing. We have a big responsibility to curtail our activities, doing simple things around our immediate environment to reduce our carbon footprint. Keep up the good work, Dave. We've got lots of work to do.
More later...

(*...where sister Susan got her start as a naturalist 30 years ago.)

REAL DEAL

2008-05-03T04:10:00.001-07:00

My friend Trevor took this shot from the edge of his property in NW Scotland in a wee village called Ardnamurchan. He calls the harmless 30' basking shark a 'summer visitor.'

Up in his remote area he runs a campground and an ecology educational centre.

Oh, that Trevor. He says he's trying to find compassion for us. In the UK they're paying the equivalent of $12/US per gallon for gas. His round trip to town for supplies is 130 miles.

NRS is GOOD to me!

2008-04-14T17:52:00.000-07:00

Many of us have used numerous NRS products over the years, they have everything a paddler could want or need. Their customer service is great and everything holds up really well. Underneath the spray skirt are my knee high neoprene mukluks. Some days I wear the shorter neoprene ankle bootie. In spring and fall I use their neoprene pants with a dry top. They sell the Kokatat dry suit I'm wearing. On the deck are their new pogies which have this great fold down cuff with a snap for retention. I find the paddling gloves good for spring and fall but they don't quite cut it in Antarctica, just a little too cold. I'm thrilled with the spray skirt...it has a long tube of the same thin neoprene with no belts, buckles or anything else to pinch and bind at the waist. And it keeps its water tight seal around the coaming. The see through deck bag with supple plastic is the cat's meow. Prrrrrrrrrrr.
Visit NRS or find their products locally at Puddledockers. (Hm, I never used to think of myself as a gearhead. Oh oh.)